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Say I want to put clearcoat over a Homegrown frame to further protect the paint and decals, what kind should I use?
Krylon Krystal Clear in a can, unless you have access to an automotive spray booth. Lots of light coats, because it’ll run.
Once you have it down to the frame, a wipe down with denatured alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Also make sure you’ve got a place to put it while it’s drying–it’ll tend to pick up lint and dust while wet.
About the only other thing I’d caution is to tape off the bottom bracket and headtubes, unless you’ve got tapping tools to scrape the clearcoat off. If you have an old headset and bottom bracket, you can install those temporarily and then remove them after spraying.
One mistake I see a lot of people making is neglecting the frame is 3D in shape. It’s not a bad idea to have a plan on going over each side multiple times lightly, including spraying from the bottom of the frame and the top.
Krylon Krystal Clear in a can- I’ll look that stuff up.
I guess my question was what type can I use, laquer, acrylic, enamel? I know some types don’t work with others, but I don’t know much about any of them. I don’t want to shoot clear all over a frame and have all the paint fall off the next time I look at it.
Clear enamel should do it. I’d stay away from anything acrylic.
Something else you may want to consider: Clear vinyl protector, I think FrameSaver is a brand name. While it won’t be as permanent, the upside is you can re-do it if there’s a mistake, and you can usually peel it up with a little heat.
Just touched up, replaced the decals and clear coated 2 Project Underground frames with Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze. Any problem areas sanded with 1500 then 2000 grit wet-n-dry sandpaper then polished the whole frame with with Meguiar’s Scratch X 2.0 fine scratch remover. I’m no pro painter or anything, but the guys at the LBS really liked the results.
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