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I finally got round to building up my old spooky pitboss.
Loving it! Thanks again Eric for your fabulous engineering and for taking the time to make and ship these things. Great work.
I finally got round to building up my old spooky pitboss.
Loving it! Thanks again Eric for your fabulous engineering and for taking the time to make and ship these things. Great work.
Greetings everyone. This thread was super helpful in upgrading my 97 Obed that was custom fitted with a Hayes 22mm mount to a modern flat mount. I had a local fab shop make one of the adapters from this thread.
Hi there, If there is any chance you are still willing to share the .stl file for this adapter I would be forever in your debt. I have a special project for a friend and I’m having a terrible time getting an adapter that works. adavies@campuswheelworks.com
Very cool, Dylan. Sorry I’m late to the party but I was interested in the dimensional differences you selected relative to 737’s mix. To sum up, it looks like the differences are:
- 737’s bracket is 7mm tall and yours is 5mm
- The slotted holes in your part are offset 4mm in the x direction relative to 737’s part
- Your slots are offset 1.5mm in the y direction while 737’s are offset .55mm.
Not that I doubt anything either of you have done; I’m just trying to make it all make sense and know that all frames are going to be a bit different thanks to the bike biz’s “standards” and manufacturing “tolerances.”
Thanks for putting this together; any thoughts on the questions I had below?
You should now be able to upload the most common file types for this sort of thing also. *drinks*Thanks for the summary! Mainly I had to move the caliper down and forward because the bleeder port was interfering with the seatstay. With the size small Attitude frame, there just isn’t much room to work with. Even with the dimension change, there still isn’t room to attach a bleeder tube, I’ll need to unbolt the caliper for service (which is fine with me).
A bigger rotor would be another way to get more clearance, but I had already installed the 160s and that size makes more sense to me for how I want to ride it.
Moving the slot offsets in the y direction (towards or away from the rotor) probably doesn’t matter much, because there’s plenty of adjustment anyway, but those were determined just by testing a few plastic prototypes. So I’m not sure if that reflects tolerances on my particular bike, “standards”, or just my crooked eyesight. 🙂
The extra cutouts and fillets are just to reduce printing cost.
The turnaround time from Shapeways is pretty slow, so I still don’t have the steel part yet, but I’ll post an update when I get it installed. Weirdly, steel quite a bit cheaper than aluminum for BJT printing.
One other suggestion for others — I kinda wish I’d chosen a different caliper with a banjo connection. The BR-M8110 has a straight port facing forward and slightly down, which makes the hose routing really ugly for this bike. The hose is routed internally through the top tube, so it would look a lot neater if the hose could exit up along the seatstay.
Hi everyone,
If you need an Adapter for your HG frame see here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325828433220?hash=item4bdce35544:g:UgUAAOSws3tlE-sk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGwEPQG5hkmh1QDIrHj19jeqT%2FRu74Q7fjl93%2BdnfhIUQvoJaI0x2ViialVbol02tohHiUavK%2FBfJoEMCxVdIjj6CSdMq6gKHG5xKjY8%2Fff8Y4er6gqgI%2Bb%2FzZcIiLO7hMQu2v8dVt9lWVrJmEPeNlfr4ygjh4UCQUm7nG8%2BezBrFAfzUWhAJ9Ww%2FX40x0%2FEiBF5jm%2F4dzKXGBWWEu5LxP24F11HOj0JyESuqNdoIGc4iVta%2BzptE%2Fq52XNjWKLbFA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5zz9IvnYgHi everyone
If you need an Adapter for your HG frame see here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325828433220?hash=item4bdce35544:g:UgUAAOSws3tlE-sk&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGwEPQG5hkmh1QDIrHj19jeqT%2FRu74Q7fjl93%2BdnfhIUQvoJaI0x2ViialVbol02tohHiUavK%2FBfJoEMCxVdIjj6CSdMq6gKHG5xKjY8%2Fff8Y4er6gqgI%2Bb%2FzZcIiLO7hMQu2v8dVt9lWVrJmEPeNlfr4ygjh4UCQUm7nG8%2BezBrFAfzUWhAJ9Ww%2FX40x0%2FEiBF5jm%2F4dzKXGBWWEu5LxP24F11HOj0JyESuqNdoIGc4iVta%2BzptE%2Fq52XNjWKLbFA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5zz9IvnYgA disappointing update – I got my print yesterday. It’s warped in a way that makes it impossible to align the caliper (the caliper slants inward). Dimensional accuracy is also not great, there is enough tolerance that it still bolts up, but it’s about 3% oversized.
I’ll ask Shapeways to re-print, and probably remove it from their store for now, but I’m curious if anyone else gets a better result.
The files are still on thingiverse for folks that want to experiment with it.
Shapeways let me know the expected accuracy is +/- 5% for their stainless steel material. I’m surprised, even my crusty old FlashForge at home is far more accurate, but I guess this is a side effect of shrinkage that occurs when the powdered metal is sintered to form a solid. They did tentatively agree to a re-print for the warpage, though.
I also had another idea that the warped print could maybe be salvaged by grinding it flat with a sander or grinding wheel. It wouldn’t have to be perfect, just “flat enough”…
In the meantime, I’ve placed a different order from PCBWay for a CNC part. It actually ended up being cheaper – only $33 for 7075 aluminum, including color anodizing and shipping. I expect the CNC process to be a lot more accurate. It will be another long wait though…
Hey Dylan, did you have any luck with the ones from PCBWay? Thanks for all of the information you’ve shared with us!
Yes the part from PCBWay was perfect! My only quibble is the anodizing is not good, it was only a few dollars for the add-on so I don’t mind, but I would probably just choose plain finish for future orders. Sorry I had replied with some photos earlier, but I think my last comment may have gone missing with the recent site migration to WP.
Yeah, sorry Dylan. I thought I had everything but there were a few manual migration items that I apparently missed.
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