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  • dylan_tack
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    Total production and shipping time from PCBWay was about 3 weeks.

    In terms of the dimensions, a millimeter here or there doesn’t really matter since there is plenty of room for adjustment in the slots. It just needs to be dead flat so the pads run true with the rotor. I fine-tuned my pattern by test-fitting a few home-printed plastic prototypes.

    I would expect adding another 10mm would let you use 180mm rotors, assuming there enough clearance to the chainstays, but I haven’t tried it.

    dylan_tack
    Participant
    dylan_tack
    Participant

    I’ve sent an email to Problem Solvers, I’m hoping maybe they would consider a small production run. It would be great if this could be more easily available to more riders. 🙂

    dylan_tack
    Participant

    No problem at all! I appreciate all the effort put into keeping this forum online.

    dylan_tack
    Participant

    Yes the part from PCBWay was perfect! My only quibble is the anodizing is not good, it was only a few dollars for the add-on so I don’t mind, but I would probably just choose plain finish for future orders. Sorry I had replied with some photos earlier, but I think my last comment may have gone missing with the recent site migration to WP.

    dylan_tack
    Participant

    Shapeways let me know the expected accuracy is +/- 5% for their stainless steel material. I’m surprised, even my crusty old FlashForge at home is far more accurate, but I guess this is a side effect of shrinkage that occurs when the powdered metal is sintered to form a solid. They did tentatively agree to a re-print for the warpage, though. 

    I also had another idea that the warped print could maybe be salvaged by grinding it flat with a sander or grinding wheel. It wouldn’t have to be perfect, just “flat enough”… 

    In the meantime, I’ve placed a different order from PCBWay for a CNC part. It actually ended up being cheaper – only $33 for 7075 aluminum, including color anodizing and shipping. I expect the CNC process to be a lot more accurate. It will be another long wait though… 

    dylan_tack
    Participant

    A disappointing update – I got my print yesterday. It’s warped in a way that makes it impossible to align the caliper (the caliper slants inward). Dimensional accuracy is also not great, there is enough tolerance that it still bolts up, but it’s about 3% oversized.

    I’ll ask Shapeways to re-print, and probably remove it from their store for now, but I’m curious if anyone else gets a better result.

    The files are still on thingiverse for folks that want to experiment with it.

    img_1831_dl.jpegimg_1830_dl.jpeg

    in reply to: Homegrown Converted to 700c with new alternate Hayes 22mm Adapter #6476
    dylan_tack
    Participant

    Thanks for the summary! Mainly I had to move the caliper down and forward because the bleeder port was interfering with the seatstay. With the size small Attitude frame, there just isn’t much room to work with. Even with the dimension change, there still isn’t room to attach a bleeder tube, I’ll need to unbolt the caliper for service (which is fine with me). 

    A bigger rotor would be another way to get more clearance, but I had already installed the 160s and that size makes more sense to me for how I want to ride it.

    Moving the slot offsets in the y direction (towards or away from the rotor) probably doesn’t matter much, because there’s plenty of adjustment anyway, but those were determined just by testing a few plastic prototypes. So I’m not sure if that reflects tolerances on my particular bike, “standards”, or just my crooked eyesight. 🙂

    The extra cutouts and fillets are just to reduce printing cost. 

    The turnaround time from Shapeways is pretty slow, so I still don’t have the steel part yet, but I’ll post an update when I get it installed. Weirdly, steel quite a bit cheaper than aluminum for BJT printing.

    One other suggestion for others — I kinda wish I’d chosen a different caliper with a banjo connection. The BR-M8110 has a straight port facing forward and slightly down, which makes the hose routing really ugly for this bike. The hose is routed internally through the top tube, so it would look a lot neater if the hose could exit up along the seatstay. 

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