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Thanks John. Imgur is one of the websites my computer lost links to. I currently only have Imgur access on my phone, and its Mobile App isn’t as friendly.
Sorry for delayed response and simple links. I just had a new hard drive installed onto my laptop and I lost all my Bookmarks and sign in information for various websites.
All you do is unbolt the noodle from the left arm and install it onto the right arm, and vice-versa for the pinch bolt. Then you can use a standard 90deg noodle.
Nice Bikes!! Too bad for me they only ever came in 19″ size.
Were you aware that you can reverse the side the noodle attaches to on those Avid Black Ops brakes? I did that on mine and it cleans up the cable routing to the rear brake.
My celeste green Michelins WildGrip’rs dry-rotted years ago. LOL I remember lots of flats on them too (I think the skinwall sides were too flimsy).
Thanks for the story and pics to get me through my lunch-break. Back to work.
Nice looking bikes Livernose!! I’ve had a couple of Sweet Spots and now my second Rocket 88.
It’s been a pretty hot summer, so my frame painting project got no love in my steamy garage. It’s almost cooling off enough for me to start back on stripping the failed paint job. I’ll keep you all posted when I get back to work on it.
Stay cool,
I was doing some wheel building over the weekend and set a 26″ rim on top of a 27.5″ rim. The 26er didn’t fall through and it really made me question what the big deal with 27.5″ is. I’ve got a 27.5″ specific bike myself, but it’s really not a big difference at all.
The A2Z adapter for Hayes 22mm mounts only seems to work with older I.S. Magura or Hope calipers. The older I.S. XTR calipers will not fit (I’ve tried it). Also remember you need to get the “Front” I.S. caliper (Magura or Hope) with the A2Z adapter because a Rear I.S. caliper will require a 180mm rotor which doesn’t fit the frame. Every standard post mount caliper I have tried to fit with the A2Z adapter will also interfere with the frame.
Can’t go wrong with Shimano cranks. XT is strong and SLX is just as strong and even cheaper.
Shimano 10 or 11 speed cassettes always fit my older hubs. Shimano 12 speed seems to be XTR only and requires a different “microspline” freehub.
I’ve not run SRAM 11 speed because the XD cassettes are too pricey for me to consider buying a hub to fit them. You can find Shimano 11sp cassettes for about half of SRAM 11sp cassettes.
Here is the BBB hardtail with 2 O’clock cable stops:
[img]https://i.imgur.com/R3MRJqX.jpg[/img]
Here is my Facotry Dart, also with 2 O’clock cable stops:
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Qyv2grb.jpg[/img]
Then the Homegrown crew with a Rockett 88 thrown in for good measure:
[img]https://i.imgur.com/xzOt50A.jpg[/img]
Funny thing is your frame is built different than my Factory Homegrowns. Both of mine have the cable stops at about 2 O’clock on the top tube which causes the cables to sorta cover the “Homegrown Factory” stickers on the drive side of top tubes. It looks like your cable stops are at the 12 O’clock position.
Is that a difference between 1996 and 1997? If so, are both of mine possibly 1996’s?
The frame is still hanging in the garage untouched from when I quit it. I must say the color is growing on me and I am considering building it up as-is. Probably go with polished hubs and some citron x517 wheels. Rest of the parts shiny aluminum or Ti. Been awhile since I’ve had a bike without black spokes.
My Dad shipped me his 19″ Bass Boat Blue 1997 Factory hardtail, so I have an excellent reference now. The 19″ frame is too big for me to mountain ride, so I’m considering turning it into my gravel bike. Also considering just taking all the parts off and hanging the frame on the wall as art……
I’ll post pics of both bikes in the next day or so.
Welcome to the Homegrown
cultfamily!! You can comfortably run 27.5×2.0″ tires on any Homegrown hartail. I question if your frame has disc mounts? I have found it difficult to find quality 650b/27.5″ rims with a brake surface. If your frame has the old Hayes 22mm caliper mounts there are options for mounting modern disc brake options. If you don’t have disc mounts, your build will be more difficult (but not impossible). I just picked up a couple of new ICBM headsets off eBay to keep in my stash of stuff. They are running $30 each which is pretty good since they do not exist elsewhere. Get em’ while you can.I can’t speak on the strength of 27.5″ wheels compared to 26″. I’ve built them, but never actually gone off-road on them yet. My 26er is just my go-to ride right now if I’m not on the 700c gravel bike (also a Homegrown hardtail).
Good luck in your build and keep those posts coming. I too strated biking again for weight loss and can say I’ve lost 30lbs in 4 months. Feels so much better.
It’s strange that the bike had a 68mm bottom bracket installed. The frame should have had a 73mm, but maybe that explains the visible rust where the loose side cup did not fully cover the inner shell.
What matters now is matching the proper bottom bracket axle to the crankset. There are multiple options with differenct axle splines/diameter etc….
I personally like the Park Tool BBT-22. There is much sand hiding the internal splines, but they are there and you will need an internal spline tool for the opposite side. The side pictured: Rotate Left to Loosen. Opposite side: Rotate Right to Loosen. I’m honestly surprised you were able to remove the (XT?) crankarms because they require a special oversize button if using the standard tool.
https://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-22
What you pictured is a Shimano Octalink V2 bottom bracket. My guess is you had a Shimano XT M751 crankset. What crankset did you purchase to replace it with? Need to know that information to make sure you get the proper bottom bracket.
The right side bottom bracket (behind the gears) is Reverse-threaded. That means you must rotate the wrench “Righty” to “Loosy”. The left side is normally threaded so “Lefty” – “Loosy”.
The bottom bracket width is 73mm, so get the bottom bracket for the crankset you purchased. If you truely think the previous bottom bracket was cross-threaded, you should take the bike to a bike shop so they can chase the threads of the bottom bracket with the proper tap.
Good Luck!!
