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The only comparison difference would be the PU feels smoother, quieter, and lighter although I’ve never weighed the two. The PU also has a more modern drivetrain that shifts better. I’ve also changed the PU fork to a Fox RLC 100, which is a little beefier than the SID on the HG. I just like the feel of the PU.
Great looking bike. Not interested, but if the fork is flat, and you haven’t let the air out, I’m guessing it needs a rebuild. Even sitting for a year and a half, it shouldn’t have leaked all the air out. An easy rebuild if you kanow how to do it for about $50, probably $150 if you can find someone else to rebuild it.
The wall hanger and rider are built very similar except for the drive trains. Photo #1 has NOS XTR 3 X 9 and blue front and rear Machine Tech hubs on Mavic 717s. Photo #2 has modern XT 2 X 10 running a Machine Tech blue front hub and an XTR rear hub on Mavic 517s. Both have Avid Ultimate brakes, Thomson post and stem, Rockshox SID with remote lockout, and Stinger saddles and bags. The PU is my favorite hard tail rider.
If you sent the shock to risse racing they might have the specs on the bolt. Or Castellano Designs for sure since he is the one that designed the Sweetspot. http://www.castellanodesigns.com/Zorro.html
bikeric, did you get this? Velocals sells decals that are very very close to original for this frame.
Not sure about the cable stops. I have a 2001 Factory Homegrown Limited and the cable stops at the 12 o’clock position. I have a 1996 frame, but not a Factory that has cable stops at the 2 o’clock position. Was bass boat paint available on 96?
But my 1997 Project Underground has the cable stops at the 2 o’clock position.
Nice. I’ve got a 97 BBB Factory Homegrown. There aren’t many of those around where I’m at. Since this photo I’ve changed the fork to a white Fox RLC and put 1″ Specialized fatboys on and ride it as a hybrid. Heresy!
Here’s a few pictures of the seat tube wrap. I have a bottle cage on it so you can’t actually see the hole I punched in the front of the decal, but you can get the general idea of where the hole is in the decal. The other photo is of the rear of the seat tube. Not a great picture and there is a cable running right in the space where the decals meet in the back. I put the middle decal on first using the cable stop at the top as a guide for punching the hole in front for the bottle cage bolt. Next I put the top decal on using the cable stop as a guide for the spacing. Then measured the spacing between the middle and top decal and used that for the middle to lower lower decal placement.
