Forum Replies Created
- Posts
The BB is a UN-72 73mmX113mm. It is used, but still spins smoothly in the hand. The threaded cups are alloy not plastic, so I would prefer to just ship the whole thing instead of one end. $10 through PayPal gets it to your door.
I know I saw a square taper BB rolling around in my garage. I’ll check the size when I get home. If the size is right, you can consider it yours.
Thanks for your purchase. It was shipped in a Xerox toner box and that worried me after the recent events with UPS. Glad it made it to you safe and sound. 😀
I just checked my frame, and it is a 73mm BB shell width. Please disregard my previous comment from a couple days ago. I hope I didn’t mess you or anyone else up. Sorry guys, my mistake.
Width should be 68mm. The crank and BB from the 99 Moab should should fit right in. Some early Homegrowns used White Industries cranks, and those bikes had longer BB axle length’s, but the shell width is always 68mm (Carbon Project Underground?). I’m curious about the frame your building. Is it a 4 banger, straight six or sweet spot?
That was the one year for the awesome “Killer Tomato Red” paint. It was very nice. Looked just like a rip tomato in the sun, and almost had a chameleon effect of orange to yellow. In 1995 and 1996, the red color frames were just that, basic “lipstick” or Crayola red. Thread as been dead for awhile, but brought back to life by canislupis. Am I correct to assume the “L” in the serial number means large or 19″?
Bye Bye carbon post. It has hitched an airplane ride to the UK. Thanks schwinnguy74 for helping me clean house.
Grambo, I had a first run Easton CT-2 post, but I weighed too much for it and CRAAAAACCCCCK. The seat rail clamp was the dual sided style which worked great. Now they are more like a “Ritchey” style which is not my favorite design.
Anyone need a Titec Titanium stem from a Factory Team bike?
Shimano, but that’s just my opinion. Still soured from mid nineties Grip Shift. I still run 8 speed though.
The whole issue of using a 180mm rotor confused me. First off, all you need to do is use a “front” adapter on the rear caliper with the A2Z. The adapters all say either 140R/160F or 160R/180F. Use the adapter that says 140R with an A2Z and all is fixed. I learned the hard way when trying to use some XTR 965 ISO brakes. That setup would have worked fine if I used “front” calipers fore and aft. Who made the standard 20mm different for the front and back anyway?
With a Schwinn banger frame, I found that the 180mm rotor rubbed the lower pivot bolt and should not be used, so I consider a 160mm rotor the max on those frames (never tried a 170mm).
BTW, that Woodman looks great. One complaint with an A2Z is that the bolts are so close you may have issues. I went to the hardware store and bought “button head” bolts to fix the clearance issues. I failed to use blue lock tight, and had to frequently stop and re-tighten the bolts and align the caliper. The Woodman looks as if it would work with standard bike bolts.
Just my 2 cents.
my direct email is “forded AT okstate DOT edu” We can figure the price and all that. PayPal or USPS money order.
I have a 26.8mm Titec carbon post. Black of course. Collecting dust since I went with a Titec Ti post, that is heavier than my aluminum Syncros and Titec carbon. Just a fashion slave. Do you have anything cool in trade or just cash?
I can’t offer any real help. Your situation is the main reason I prefer Homegrowns from 1999 or earlier. I thought the ICBM used the frame as the bearing race with the headtube machined internally. If that is the case, I would NOT try and “knock it out”. Have you tried soaking the headtube in penetrating oil?
You have a “Factory”, but it is repainted. My 1998 Factory red/gold had a canti stop, but my 1998 Factory blue/silver (Thanks John) does not. I see the taper in the seat stays, but I can’t see from the pics if they are two-pieces welded at the top, or a single bent tube. The Factory will have the extra weld. Also, your cable stops are at the 2 o’clock position (not on top) so its’ gotta be pre 1998. Looks great to me.
I have started a new project. I have this bike converted to SS, but have recently purchased an Easton Elite frame that will allow me go SS or geared without a “singleator”. I now need to sell one of my frames (wifes request/order). I can part with this 17″ 1998 BB Orange frame, or a 15.5″ 2004 Trek Liquid 55. Any interest in either frame with any parts, let me know. First to sell gets to go. Listed on Ebay now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110593166960&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
